Monday, March 25, 2013

BRO-SUMMIT(S) - JESSE & SAMBO MAKE IT TO GRENOBLE


        After over two years of threatening and scheming, friends Sambo and Jesse finally made it out to our neck of the woods for an all too brief week+ visit. Our initial plan to ski over 75 miles from Grenoble to Briançon meta-morphosed under the influence of weather, prospects of slogging and the desire to ski good snow with light packs. After receiving a meter of new snow and lots of wind during the first weekend of the trip, primary goals became 1) not getting caught in an avalanche 2) skiing to Italy and 3) sharing a mix of novel and familiar terrain with these guys in hopes of boosting the odds of future visits.
        Hosting East-coast friends and skiers was more fun than I could have imagined. I think Sambo would have happily sessioned one alpine cirque (and the forest leading up to it) for the duration of the trip, based on his unrelenting motivation to ski every gully, glade, snowfield and cooler in sight. Frequent references to Nashoba Valley made whatever we were doing, even if it was low-angle skinning through risk 4 windslab, seem like a grand expedition. And it was, especially when the baseline meant hanging out with these two wonderful characters and getting to mix friends from home with people and places over here.  



LAUSIERE - le Bellachat (2484m) & la Pointe des Marmottes Noires (2339m)


Olivier leading Team America from the comfort of his splitboard. 

Skinning past heady aiguilles on Day 1.

Sambo happy with his choice to tele "for esthetic reasons." 

Ian getting it done on the northeast side of les Marmottes Noires. 

Meadow skipping

Hillary making a weekend appearance and scoring one of the best days of the trip.


QUEYRAS - Col Agnel (2744m) & l'Eychassier (2968m)



Lifestyle image from the hut picnic table, courtesy of Gubb.

The man himself strolling to the Col de l'Eychassier.
Sambo taking it to the summit. 

Bro self-portré. 

Ski incursion into Italy and timeless style, check.


BELLEDONNE - la Grande Lance de Domène (2780m) & le Grand Colon (2394m)



Psyched on the summit with the Grand Pic de Belledonne in the background
(no big deal, we traversed that ridgeline with Gus two summers ago...)

Jesse casts off from the summit of the Grande Lance. 

Sambo, nobody cares that you tele. That said you're a hoser...

Oliver shreds down B14.1, a real Belledonne classic. Lots more snow than
when we skied this with Thad, Carrie, Brian and Hill last winter. 

Le vieux bouqetin en action!

On the summit of the Grand Colon with Jono in our midst, with Grenoble and springtime down below. Alas, Jono is heading back to America this week and will be sorely missed as a provider of good banter on the skin track and over beers, not to mention as the man who brought All of the Lights to the Grenoble brassband scene. I plan to bombard him with constant Big Pretty Propaganda in hopes that he will be back in Grenoble soon... 



Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Another Sunday at church in les Ecrins/Cerces

COULOIRS WEST & NORTH OF THE GRAND GALIBIER (3228m) 

Looking across the way toward the Aiguilles d'Arves.

          Yesterday I headed up to the Lautaret Pass with Ian and Olivier for a day of "roadside cragging" (couenne),  as Olivier would call it. This definition included about 6000' feet of vertical spread out over two couloirs and featured hours of strenuous bootpacking, but I suppose it did all happen fairly close to the car. After ascending the W couloir, Ian opted for a two-hour a nap at 3000m rather than the trip down and up the northern couloir, which I thought was a very respectable choice. We then proceeded to the summit all together before heading down the W couloir just as the afternoon sun started to soften things up. All in all a great day out that confirmed two things I'm pretty sure I already knew: couloir skiing (not too steep and with good snow) is wicked fun and the Ecrins remain an endless playground...    

Serious bricolage through a small rockband midway down the couloir W, but the skis stayed on!














How are these men single?


Endless roadside cragging, 1h30 from Grenoble. 


Thursday, February 28, 2013

Tête de la Grisonnière--or, Vive les Vacances! 

Tête de la Grisonnière:
admiring our tracks from La Mure
While Brad slaved away in the lab, Olivier (who apparently rarely has to work), Jono (who will soon be concluding his perma-vacation) and I took advantage of beautiful weather and good snow coverage to take a ski day down near the Taillefer.

View to the south: looking at the Devoluy's impressive Obiou




  


  







While the view was incredible, initially, the snow was disappointing. The micro-climate effect was present, meaning that 35 minutes south of Sunday and Monday's abundant Chartreusian powder, no new snow had fallen. 
Jono(bottom right), slogs up the last
25 minutes of the climb
Le Vieux Bouquetin charges
We finally gave up on the skinning, and Olivier, le vieux bouqetin, led the charge up the final pitches of the climb, where the snow had two layers of crust, and a small powder layer in between--perfect for slippery skinning.

Happy to be at the top
 Finally arriving at the top, sweaty and tired, we enjoyed a wind-free sunny day, taking an hour long lunch break--a time frame that would prove beneficial for the snow on the descent.

After tea, coffee, oranges, cookies, pizza, calzone, cheese, dried fruit, chocolate and sun-tanning, we pulled off our skins, tightened our boots, and pointed our skis downhill.
Lucky Luke
We were thrilled with what we found: the crust that had so frustrated us for the climb had softened in the sun, revealing a mix of consolidated powder and spring-like corn. The turns were excellent, as evidenced by Jono's consistently joyful whooping and yelling.

I remember once, Nancy recounted a story from Buke's childhood.  She had asked him what his favorite emotion was.  She was taken off guard by his response: relief.   Since then, I have thought a lot about what I might count as my favorite emotion, most often, I settle on pleasantly surprised.  Lucky for me, yesterday's tour embodied exactly that.  After a long, tough montée, through crust and slippery snow, a descent of fun turns through great snow--VERY pleasantly surprising.

Pleasant Suprise.


Tuesday, February 26, 2013

LE MONT CHARVIN - HAUTE SAVOIE


        This past weekend Hillary and I headed to Annecy to spend a night with my host-parents (from 2006!) followed by a day out skiing with Darin and Christophe. We let Darin choose the itinerary and he took us to the site of the first ski tour I did with Christophe, the Mont Charvin. During the return trip I found the skin track still to be steep enough to cause pucker factor, and the sculpted summit ridge still felt like it should glaciated and way up high in the Mont Blanc range despite its modest altitude and the occasional tuft of grass poking through. All in all a beautiful day out and great to reconnect with our friends from the north. 





Smile, it's a beautiful day in the Alps.


CHARTREUSE POW


         The low-lying Chartreuse have been getting pummeled with powder like nowhere else in the region, and locals are calling this the best winter in thirty years. Hillary and I weren't planning to ski on Sunday until we found ourself in the midst of 2m snow banks on the drive home. The ensuing cold smoke was so good that we couldn't resist a dawn patrol the next morning with Olivier (dressed to play) and Jono. 






Tuesday, February 19, 2013

PIC DE BURE - Dévoluy Massif


          Cedric gave Olivier and I a tour of what he refers to as the most beautiful country in the world,  the Hautes-Alpes region surrounding the small city of Gap. While it's hard to say for sure if he's right, sun and powder sure are persuasive. The beginning of our day was nonetheless pretty rocky -- Olivier and I got up at 5am in Grenoble, housed eggs, bacon and coffee and then noticed a latenight text message pushing back our rendez vous -- back to sleep! Then we spent a half an hour without cell service at the trailhead blasting Nique Ta Mère and eagerly waiting for Cedric to roll up only to realize that we were supposed to have meet down in the valley rather than at the trailhead. Then the snow was crusty and wind schralped and Olivier nearly threw a tantrum. In the end though, Cedric made the right call and we got around to appreciating summit views and untracked snow.

On the summit plateau, which includes an astrophysics observatory.


Looking back on our tracks down the Combe d'Aurouze. Olivier was quite pleased with his split board as you can see.






Sunday, February 10, 2013

Hillary is Back: ski touring above the Chazelet  



We were thinking of blizzard-bound New Englanders yesterday and thought these sun-filled images might be appreciated. Before celebrating our friend Mathilde's birthday last night at François' family's place above la Grave, Hill and I headed up to ski for the day before bad weather and hangovers rolled in this morning. I can rarely think of a mellow tour feeling so satisfying, for three reasons: 1) Hill was finally healthy and we were able to get out for the first time together in weeks 2) we expected a combination of wind scoured and wind slabed snow and in the end were able to find sheltered goods and 3) skiing through sun-drenched terrain and turning around to the see the north face of the Meije is awesome. As we eyed the higher summits in all directions, I think we both started regaining the motivation for tackling big days out together. Good thing the ski season is still young!

Friday, February 8, 2013

Small Missions...


All of the lights: sunrise view of downtown Grenoble from the Moucherotte (1901m).
Jono and Cedric in the southern Ecrins.

Meanwhile, Hillary rides out the flu and does not partake in small missions. 

Monday, December 24, 2012