Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Voie Contamine Grisole - Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m)

Olivier and I took part in some téléphérique magic this past Saturday, summiting a 4000m peak between the hours of 9am and 3pm. The two of us have done a bunch of skiing and climbing together, but this was our first alpine excursion - as I anticipated things were fast, solid and fun, and I'm definitely looking forward to tackling more projects together. 

Also I've been dropping the ball on the update but Texas-native and Bay Area-local Jono Sanders moved out here a month ago, and the two of us have been on some awesome trips to the Vercors and Ecrins during recent weekends. Check out his blog for some recaps of rock climbing and cultural adventures, not to mention a short film he put together from our trip to the Dibona. 

In the meantime here are some photos from Chamonix this past weekend:





Grand view from the summit: (right to left) Mont Maudit and the Kufner Arête (where Hillary were in summer '11), Mont Blanc, Mont Blanc du Courmayeur, Grand Pilier de l'Angle, and the Aiguilles Blanche et Noire de Peuterey (climbing that ridge from Italy is a bucket list objective!!).

Also today is the day to wish Hillary a Happy Birthday! Tonight we're celebrating chez Jean Mi and Anne -- photos of gourmet cheeseburgers to follow... 

Saturday, October 6, 2012

Great summer, followed by "tough" rentrée (Part 1)

With subtle, gentle comments like, "If you don't write a blog post this week, I am taking your name off the blog!" Brad has been reminding me that I am behind on what began as a joint documentation process. His frequent admonishments, in general, have not deterred my steadfast avoidance of writing the mother of all catch-up blog posts.  However, I have finally conceded and am now, months late, stepping up to the plate to overwhelm you, our massive readership, with a picture show....

Now, allow me to take you into my time machine…

1) June 2012 : We ran really far

Coach 
Training run in the Aiguilles Rouges
with views of Mont Blanc 
Those dedicated readers who remember that I ran a race back in May (coming home with a large leg of ham), may also recall that the May race was training for a bigger, tougher race that I corralled Brad into running with me in June.   The big, tough race was the Grand Duc de Chartreuse, which Brad and I completed under the team name « Fast and Late ».   Acting as a loving and supportive teammate, Brad accompanied me to my 6am start time and then hung out waiting for me to finish my 49km (30mi) and 3,500m (11,500ft) of vertical in 7 and a half hours.  He then took the baton, or in this case mini gps tracker, and headed out.  With an astonishingly small amount of training, Brad managed to speed through his 37km (23miles) and 1500m (5000ft) in the blistering afternoon sun.  There were many seriously intense runners and ultrarunners at the event, but we managed to squeak into 4th place in the male-female team category. 

Brad finishes his leg of the race;
I accompany him in the final stretch
Thibaut

2) Chipie makes the epic voyage to the Pyrenees

After school finished for both of us, and after our good friends Caryn and Kyle left, Brad and I hoped into our trusty euro shitbox and drove across France in a day.   The destination: Vallée d’Ossau.  Nestled in the heart of the Pyrenees, a few kilometers from the Spanish border is the wonderful and welcoming Refuge Pombie.  It was there that we found our dear friend Thibaut (and his benevolent boss Karine) lodged us, and we proceed to have our egos knocked down a few notches by Pyrenees climbing grades on the Pic du Midi d'Ossau. 

Refuge Pombie
Highlights from the trip: 
1) After seeing people camped within feet of the road for miles through a series of mountain passes, concluding that people in in the Pyrenees are crazy, and finally realizing that the Tour de France was passing through the next day.
2) Magnificent traverse of the petit and grand pics.
3) Dismissing the clanging of pots and pans intended to alert us we were off route as cow bells and continuing climbing up a ridiculously hard route
4) finding a field of grazing horses
5) completing the botanical tri-fecta : edelweiss, genepi and chardon bleu

6) late night trip to Spain to see a not-so-free free concert



Brad minds the gap











Approaching the Meije from La Berarde







3) We climb the Meije!!!

As our last objective before I heading back to the US, Brad and I joined forces with the Seb and Cédric to traverse the Meije.  
 The Meije has lived large in my dreams since I arrived in France and saw it towering above La Grave and Chazelet (see the photo at the top of the blog).  The traverse of the arêtes has tempted me ever since JeanMi described it enthusiastically as “un truc unvraisonbable” (as far as I know, that is not a word, but is roughly what I recall him saying from back when I barely spoke any French).  And finally, I began to really covet the “Queen” last fall when Tophe and Brad scored an amazing coup bivouacking on the summit.
Arriving au sommet
With the virgin at the summit
With such sustained build up, I jumped at the opportunity to do the traverse dangerously close to the day that I was leaving the country. The instigators of the traverse were Seb (a researcher at the Laboratoire d’Ecologie Alpine) and Cédric (a botanist for the Parc Nationale des Ecrins) who swore not to have any fun while sampling alpine plants on sunny south faces for their Vertical Ecology scientific research project.
The traverse took us across
 nearly this entire ridge
Weather reports didn't predict favorable summit bivouac conditions, so we spent two nights in the Refuge du Promontoire before our big day.
Leaving at around 5am, we began our long rock climb directly from the hut, climbing into daylight, traversed a hanging glacier and reached the summit around 9:30 in the morning.  
After a short break, we embarked on the next, and no less demanding part of the journey: the traverse of the arêtes. 
The "droigt de dieu" or
"finger of god"
section of the arête

Brad, Seb and Cédric
Never too easy, but never too difficult, this climb took us across what must be one of the most beautiful ridges the Alps has to offer.  There was a little bit of everything--rock, snow, ice, and alpine via ferrata (on the bolted Dent Zigmondy).  It gave us the perfect amount of spice, and a demanding length, but always in the right dose. 
Over the last 9 months, I've had lots of time to question whether or not I want to keep doing this kind of activity. If any doubt lingered in my mind the morning we left for the Meije, it was quickly erased by a climb that, to say the very least, exceeded expectations and renewed my respect and awe for the mountain environment. 


*****stay tuned for part two of "Great Summer, Tough Rentrée", where you'll be introduced to the challenges of restarting a school year in the Alps****


Sunday, September 2, 2012

August on the Homefront

        This summer's home tour featured a two-week visit from Monsieur Olivier, the first of our grenoblois friends to leave the Alps for the greener hills of the Northeast. His Franklin The Turtle honed English allowed him to integrate seamlessly into our world of family and friends, and his incredible laybacking skills allowed him to surmount even the most splitter of cracks...

Adirondacks, NY

Noonmark Mt. - summit crag

Buke and the Gubb rounded out our climbing excursion by bringing bee bee shotgun to the summit

The Cabin
Left to right: Gus, Lyle, Sambo, Olivier and myself fireside lounging 

Spider's Web - On the Loose, Esthesia, Slim Pickins, TR and Dacker Cracker

Hillary finds the jams on On the Loose 


Pete Hyson making social climbing look good 



                                           
Les grimpers, lisez bien, ce panneau est pour vous!


Poke-o Moonshine - Fastest Gun & Casual Observer 
P4 Fastest Gun, 5.10a
Olivier following P2 Fastest Gun, 5.9+++ on a muggy day
Turning it to eleven on P2 of Casual Observer, 5.11a

White Mountains, NH

Cannon - Vertigo, Reppy's, Slow and Easy & the Whitney G in a day


Heading to the pendulum on P2 (5.8) of Vertigo

He's jamming! P4 (5.8)
Following the money fingercrack on P3 (5.9) of Vertigo




Whitney G                                                Reppy's                                                   Slow & Easy


And a few non-climbing photos after all.... 

Team Carlson on top of Marcy during a three-day backpack together. 
Big thanks to Jesse and Shira for providing an enjoyable basecamp in Boston for
departures, arrivals and visa appointments...

A parting shot from Yarmouth Island, Maine.

And now, back to school!